"...to seek and to find the past, a lineage, a history, a family built on a flesh and bone foundation."

Thursday, August 29, 2019

Travel Thursday: Monday Fun Day in London

The National Archives UK
Over the last few years, part of what I have been working on for my history work entails that I visit the National Archives UK [NAUK] in Kew, London. It is a first class facility with plenty of helpful staff, and a wonderfully QUIET reading room in which the only sounds you should hear are those of crinkling old paper and the pages of books being turned. It is a positively blissful atmosphere in which to work.

When I go over to Kew, I often fly into London Heathrow very early on a Monday morning. NAUK is closed on Mondays, so flying in early allows for a free day to play the tourist in London, while saving the cost of staying over on Sunday night. Some people avoid Heathrow because it's the biggest and the busiest airport in London, but I love the energy of Heathrow. Best of all, it is the closest airport to Kew, it runs like clock-work and you can catch the underground train just a short walk from Terminal 2.

In today's Travel Thursday post, I am offering some travel advice for heading to Kew from Ireland, as well as some ideas for ways in which you might spend your time on the Monday you arrive. You will note that what I am suggesting here comprises more than one jam-packed day in London. You may want to choose only one or two sights to visit, depending on your fitness level and your stamina. Also, if you stay out all day, keep in mind your choices for travelling back to Kew. Personally, I feel comfortable travelling on the Tube in the early evening and at night, but you may feel otherwise. Though it will cost you more, taxi cabs are always an option.

If you are in Ireland and you decide to pop over for a little research, in the autumn Aer Lingus commuter flights leave Dublin Airport as early as 6:30 am. To keep things economical, be sure to take one small overnight bag for clothes, MacBook/laptop/iPad etc., and a very small crossbody bag for passport, money, protein bar etc. — nothing else. Also, if it will be your first time visiting the Archives, you will need to register for a reader's ticket. Visit National Archives UK online for full details to ensure your visit will be a successful one.

Before you go...

Left: Service updates on London Tube App; Right: Google Maps.
Be sure you have both apps on your phone.
Before you travel, set yourself up for success by buying and loading your Visitor Oyster card online. An Oyster card is the most popular payment method for public transport in London. Also, download the London Tube App. It is invaluable for getting service updates. The Tube system is extensive, and closures and delays are part of the daily operations, so knowing about them in advance will make your day go more smoothly. Be sure you have the Google Maps app on your phone too, as this will allow you to plan your walking route more effectively, as well as provide you with further information on public transport. 

Well in advance of your trip, book your stay in Kew, the location of the National Archives. There are a couple of small independent hotels in Kew that are about 10 minutes walk to the Archives. My favourite is the Coach & Horses on Kew Green. It’s a lovely little boutique hotel that is only about a 10 minute walk from Kew Gardens Station, and from the Archives. A little further afield from the Archives is the Kew Gardens Hotel (best avoided in my experience, as I stayed there twice, and it was awful on both occasions. However, I understand it may be under new ownership). If you prefer a more conventional hotel, there is the Premier Inn London Richmond. It is located in Richmond, as the name says, and is about 25 mins walk from the Archives. There are also a couple of B & Bs in the area, and of course Air BnB is always an option. 

When you arrive at your accommodation, you’ll be too early for check-in, so call in advance to ensure your hotel will allow you to drop off your bag (Be sure it will be held in a secure spot). Drop off your bag, and you’re ready to go.

When you land…

Once you’re set to leave Heathrow Airport, travel to Kew Gardens Station on the London Tube. Heathrow has three London Underground stations. One serves Terminals 2 and 3 — it’s in between them, and there is a walkway to get there. There is also an underground station at Terminal 4 and one at Terminal 5. 

To get to Kew Gardens Station, you will need to take the Piccadilly line to Hammersmith (District & Piccadilly Line), then make a quick switch at Hammersmith to the District line to Kew Gardens Station. Then walk to your chosen accommodation and drop off your bag. 

Head out for a day in London…

Off we go...

From Kew Gardens Station, take the District Line to Hammersmith; switch to the Piccadilly Line to South Kensington Station (about 25 mins total time). This will bring you to the heart of Albertopolis. There are also a number of lovely shops and restaurants close to South Kensington station.

Left: Royal Albert Hall; Right; The Albert Memorial.
Two of the sights you might visit in Albertopolis.
What is Albertopolis?

In the South Kensington area of London, following the fabulous success of the Great Exhibition of 1851, Prince Albert, prince consort to Queen Victoria, had the brilliance of forethought to create a metropolis of art, science and culture. Albert was worried that the British Empire was lagging behind the rest of the world, and so he wanted to create schools for learning, as well as archives and museums, which would celebrate all the best of the British Empire, and mark out Britain as the world leader in the areas of art, science, and culture. 

After Albert's death in 1861, Queen Victoria continued to add to this area, which had become known colloquially as 'Albertopolis'. Laying the cornerstone at what was to be named the Central Hall of Arts and Sciences, Queen Victoria officially christened it Royal Albert Hall. In effect Victoria ensured that the area serves as a national memorial to the memory of her husband.

In addition to Royal Albert Hall, there are numerous sights to visit in this area including the Albert Memorial, the Victoria & Albert Museum, the Royal College of Music, The Royal College of Art and the Museum of Natural Science.

Where Pussy Cat went...

Once you’ve had your fill of Albertopolis, you may want to go on to see Buckingham Palace. You won't be able to visit the Queen, as the storied Pussy Cat did, but you can get an outside view of one of the palaces in which she lives. Also, the Queen Victoria Memorial in front of the palace, at the top of the Mall is a sight to behold. It is only a 20-25 minute walk from South Kensington to Buckingham Palace (or 15 minutes via the Tube on the Piccadilly, Circle or District Lines to Green Park Station, then 8 minutes walk to Buckingham Palace).

Buckingham Palace on a sunny/rainy day.
From Buckingham Palace, a 15 minute walk up the Mall and through the Admiralty Arch will take you to Trafalgar Square, home to Nelson's Monument, the National Gallery, the National Portrait Gallery, St. Martin-in-the-Fields, — the royal parish church and church of the Admiralty — and a number of statues of historical import.

Left: The Admiralty Arch; Right: Nelson's Monument dominating Trafalgar Square
You may want to travel to the Palace at Westminster, with Big Ben, and Westminster Abbey. Be aware that the Elizabeth Tower in which the clock is located is currently scaffolded and will remain so until 2020. These extraordinary buildings are directly over the road from one another, and are only a 15 minute walk from Buckingham Palace. Also, on the grounds of Westminster Abbey is St. Margaret’s Church. Consecrated in 1523, it is the Church of the House of Commons, and is worth a visit.

Left: Entrance to Westminster Abbey; Right: The Abbey Cloisters.
Consider walking to and from all of these sights, because if you take the underground you’ll miss a number of sights along the way. For instance if you follow Bird Cage Walk, you'll see St. James’ Park, the Guards Museum, Flanders Fields Memorial Garden, and the Imperial War Museum (at Horse Guards Road), to name a few.

Up in the air or down on the Thames...

The London Eye
Cross over Westminster Bridge and take a spin in one of the pods on the London Eye (it's actually called the Coca-Cola London Eye) for extraordinary views. In advance be sure to book online to get into the fast-track line up. You will still have to line up, but it will not take quite so long. Be aware that they are strict about what you can take into the pod. No professional camera equipment, luggage or huge rucksacks, tripods etc.

The Palace at Westminster & The Elizabeth Tower that holds Big Ben. I shot this from a boat on the Thames.
Currently, the Elizabeth Tower and Big Ben are completely covered by scaffolding and will be until 2020.  
If heights are not your cup of tea, hop onto a Thames River Cruise. Be sure to take the cruise that travels out to the Palace of Placentia at Greenwich (the primary palace of Henry VIII and birthplace of the very first queen named Elizabeth). Greenwich is the home of the Prime Meridian, where east meets west, and GMT - Greenwich Mean Time. Nearby is the Cutty Sark and the National Maritime museum. On the trip you will also see the Shard, the Tower of London, Tower Bridge, The New Globe Theatre, and numerous other sights of interest. Google ‘Thames River Cruise’ for cruise company options and to get full details.

A few sights I've shot along the way on the Thames.
Clockwise: Tower Bridge, The Shard, The Tower of London, and The New Globe Theatre.
To visit in Kew...

Given that you’ll be staying in Kew, if you have no interest in travelling far afield, be sure to visit the Royal Botanic Gardens, aka Kew Gardens. The Elizabeth Gate entrance is 4 mins walk, just over the road from the Coach & Horses. Kew Gardens is a UNESCO World Heritage site. With more than 50,000 different types of plant life, it is the most biodiverse place on our planet. As well, it boasts the largest Victorian glass house in the world, along with Kew Palace and Queen Charlotte’s cottage. Visit kew.org to learn about all Kew Gardens has to offer.

St. Anne's Church & churchyard, Kew Green.
If your taste runs to that of the taphophile, St. Anne's Churchyard on Kew Green is directly over the road from the Coach & Horses. Among those interred here is English portrait and landscape painter Thomas Gainsborough, likely best known for his portraits including 'The Blue Boy', 'The Lady in Blue' and 'Georgiana, The Duchess of Cavendish'. William Aiton, gardener to King George III, and widely recognised as the first 'true keeper' of the gardens at Kew is also buried here, along with a number of other 18th century notables. A little further away — about 20 mins walk from NAUK — is the Old Mortlake Burial Ground. Notable burials here include Charles Dickens Jr., first born son of the famous novelist, and Georgina Hogarth, sister-in-law of Dickens Sr.. Georgina is the woman who edited and published two volumes of his letters after Dickens' death.

Throughout the day be sure to stay well hydrated and well fed. I always carry protein bars with me; they are perfect if lunch options are limited. In Kew there are a number a traditional pubs, including those connected to the hotels. Also, if you’re interested in delicious French food try ‘Ma Cuisine’, a bistro near Kew Gardens Station. Owned by two ex-pat French gentlemen, this lovely little bistro has wonderful food, service and atmosphere. It is a little slice of Paris in Kew.

Travel safely, and be open to seeing as much as you can. Have a wonderful Monday in London, and good luck with your research at the National Archives on Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday...and so on.

Disclosure: Any suggestions made in this blog post are based purely on my own experience. I am not compensated in any way by any company of any description for making reference to any particular hotel, sight or website, nor am I in any way responsible for the content, URL changes, opinions, or any other matter expressed on the sites to which this blog is linked.

©Jennifer Geraghty-Gorman



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